Easy and Qucik Assembly: comes with several assembled parts and all nuts you need, the whole process may only take you about 2 hours.
Advanced Extruder Technology: Upgraded extruder greatly reduces plugging risk and bad extrustion; V-Shape with POM wheels make it move noiseless, smoothly and durable.
Resume Print Function: Ender 3 has the ability to resume printing even after a power outage or lapse occurs.
Protected Power Supply: with High Safety and Efficiency, Only needs 5 minutes for hot bed to reach 110℃.
Strict Test and Reliable After-sales Service: Strict testing for key components before delivery and life-time technical supports available.
Specification: Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY with Resume Print 220x220x250mm, AU Plug 230V
9 reviews for Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY with Resume Print 220x220x250mm, AU Plug 230V
4.2out of 5
★★★★★
★★★★★
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★★★★★
Peter C –
Si legge di tutto su questa stampante, è difficile non dilungarsi sui pregi. Pro: – rapporto qualità prezzo ottimo; ho provato altre stampanti ben più costose e dalla qualità decisamente inferiore – per essere un kit è piuttosto semplice da montare, tutte le viti sono contenute in bustine etichettate che riportano le misure delle viti quindi è impossibile sbagliare dove vanno usate – il piatto scalda bene, ha una buona aderenza senza dover utilizzare prodotti che aiutino l’incollagio del pezzo – si può sostiture l’ugello estrusore con ugelli di sezioni differenti per ottenere finiture più o meno raffinate (utilizzare ugelli MK8) – precisa, buona concentricità (cilindri e sfere vengono realizzati in maniera più che soddisfacente) – possibilità di utilizzare tanti filamenti di materiale differente (PLA, PLA+, ABS, ABS+, PETG, FLEX, WOOD, CARBON etc.) Li ho provati quasi tutti con ottimi risultati – a seconda del materiale e delle impostazioni si riescono ad ottenere pezzi piuttosto lisci e piacevoli al tatto
Contro: – per il momento posso dire che essendo completamente aperta è piuttosto rumorosa – non è velocissima
Note generali e consigli: – i materiali plastici sono piuttosto fragili se utilizzati per pezzi con parti sottili o piccoli incastri, scegliere materiali come il flex aiuta – carini alcuni progetti già pronti da stampare che si trovano in rete e che migliorano la stampante stessa – è bello giocare con le impostazioni di temperatura estrusore/piatto e tutte le varie impostazioni per capire bene come ottimizzare le stampe (io solitamente uso i software cura e slic3er) poi i cad free che si trovano in rete – fare attenzione ai primi istanti di stampa facendo in modo che porzioni di filamento già estruso e solidificato non risultino arricciate perchè potrebbe compromettere il resto della stampa se la testina ci va a sbattere contro – organizzare bene i cavi in modo che non intralcino i movimenti del piatto e della testina
Ero partito con 4 stelle ma mi rendo conto scrivendo che attualmente merita 5 stelle 🙂
Aggiornamento 13/03/2019, dopo 6 mesi di utilizzo: ho fatto molte prove con filamenti diversi, ottenendo buoni risultati, di seguito alcune osservazioni: – dopo i primi test ho acquistato solo filamenti PLUS ovvero con il + dopo la sigla del materiale perché li ho trovati più omogenei, meno odorosi e con le adeguate temperature non si è mai intasato l’ugello. – Ho sempre stampato in qualità “Fine” – Ho sempre usato l’ugello standard da 0.4 anche se ne ho altri più fini che proverò a breve. – Attenzione durante la calibrazione del piatto a girare nel senso corretto e poco per volta le ghiere del piatto perchè sbagliando potreste bucare il piatto che è morbido e l’ugello caldo lo fonde – Tutti i problemi avuti di distacco dell’oggetto dal piatto sono riconducibili ad una non perfetta calibrazione del piatto che va fatta spesso. – Pezzi di dimensioni maggiori di circa 5cmx5cm hanno più problemi di aderenza; anche io ho riscontrato che il piatto non è perfettamente piano e all’allontanarsi dal centro l’oggetto tende a non aderire perfettamente (provare con piano di vetro) – Per oggetti che si aprono in orizzontale (tipo fungo per intenderci) utilizzare le “colonnette” di supporto altrimenti il filo non sta su (le settate dal software di slicing). Per la mia esperienza non servono per tutta la lunghezza dello sbalzo ma si possono mettere a intervalli anche perchè comunque la loro rimozione lascia dei segni che vanno eventualmente limati PLA+ : semplice, aderisce bene al piatto, fragile per pezzi sottili PETG: bel materiale, semplice, aderisce bene al piatto, meno fragile del PLA+, consigliato ABS+: rognosetto nell’aderenza al piatto, non mi esalta TPU+ : bello perchè è gommoso quindi adatto per applicazioni particolari, non facilissima la stampa soprattutto nei primi layer WOOD+: per ora il mio preferito perchè ha un aspetto uniforme e quasi non si percepiscono i fili, bello al tatto, facile da stampare, buona aderenza al piatto
Buon divertimento!!
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★★★★★
Jalal –
The price of the printer is very good and the printer is nice with all the accessories.
However, need the assembly process can be something to consider, especially for beginners.
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★★★★★
Jean-Luc Hafey –
(edit out of the box quality still remains the same, however replacing the stock build plate with a PEI spring steel plate with adhesive magnet base upgrade massively corrects many of the low points making larger prints printable, sellers did also open dialog following review but since the problem is basically solved at this point ¯\_(ツ)_/¯) Hot bed is completely warped, it has low points in between the tramming screws which makes large prints in its current form impossible, small prints such as the one included on the sd card are possible and work quite well especially with a layer between them and the bed but anything larger will have the nozzle digging into the bed on some sections and printing in air on others. bed is also frustratingly adhesive with some filament impossible to remove even when scraping using metal tools, also more of warning but don’t put your thumb on the side of the scraping tool there are a couple of nasty burs on it. from what i have looked up it is possible to correct the squareness of the bed with heat resistant tape and a more flat build plate, but i would hope that future models have this issue fixed or at least provide customers the supply’s to fix it
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★★★★★
Clap –
si vous débuté dans le monde de l’impression 3d je vous conseille d’utiliser cura car il rend de très belle impression(mais rend le impression un peux long). cette impriment a énormément de point positif pour le prix: +le prix +facilité de montage +facilité d’utilisation( par rapport a une anet a8) +qualité des print génial une fois le bon paramètre trouver +la boite est très bien protéger et agencer +le build surface très très efficace
mais il y a quand même des default qui peuvent être résolue : -le bed légèrement tordue mais pas trop gênant(remplacement Creality imprimante 3D verre de carbone de Lit ) -moteur bruyant (resolution 3 Pcs NEMA 17 Moteur pas à pas en acier) -il y a un bip lor des réglages avec la molette
Si le commentaire vous a été utiles dite le moi.^^
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★★★★★
Peter C –
I really gotta give props to Creality for making this printer so affordable and (relatively) easy to set up and use. Since getting it I learned a of stuff about 3D printing (both by being forced to do it and trying to troubleshoot all the different issues :P)
It’s a great printer for the price, not sure what else I can say. Initial assembly was relatively easy and took around an hour. Then I realised I haven’t done it properly so I had to re-assemble parts I assembled before (another 1h). Then a couple of days later I realised the frame is not straight… So I disassembled and re-levelled the whole thing from scratch (another 2h or so) Then i’ve done it yet again a couple of days later to straighten the gantry 😛 Unfortunately factory pre-assembled parts were not perfectly assembled. The bed is not perfectly even either, seems a bit warped but oh well the glass bed upgrade is too expensive.
Usage is straightforward after assembly, there’s an amazing amount of 3D-printable improvements to the Ender 3, tons of guides and information readily available. SD card slot is a great addition but you’ll probably want to move to an Octoprint setup for ease of use and to flash a more recent Marlin firmware.
Unfortunately the Pause feature has bugged out multiple times on me on the original firmware (just freezes printer in place, ruining prints) but at least the power-loss recovery works fine (once it freezes just shut it off and back on and it will give you an option to resume). No such issues with the custom-built Marlin fw.
Worth noting is that my unit came with a 4.2.2 32-bit motherboard, an extruder guide enforced with metal and adjustable tension. Attached amount of filament was almost enough to print the sample doggy figure – you can clearly see where the filament ran out ;(
Overall it’s a fun learning experience but if you’re expecting to just “buy, print and forget” – this might be the best choice for you as it has no auto bed levelling and other features present in more expensive printers (unless you upgrade it yourself)
Definitely watch one or two assembly videos to get an idea of what to look out for during assembly, it will save you time in the longer run
Helpful(0)Unhelpful(0)You have already voted this
★★★★★
Mac –
I will split my review in two pieces, printer (Ender 3) and reseller (Comgrow).
Printer: This is a very, very inexpensive printer. It comes partially assembled however I wouldn’t consider it partially assembled at all. I recommend anyone buying this to dismantle the lower half and reassemble with due care and attention. Assemble the whole printer on a flat surface and a set square. Ensure the whole frame is square and the z rod is square and parallel to the frame. Ensure belts are tight, and ensure the carriage, z gantry and bed wheels are tensioned correctly before beginning to print.
Carefully assembling the printer will make troubleshooting print quality amazingly simple. I would recommend using Simplify 3d as the slicer with this printer.
Overall I am getting incredible prints now with this printer. For <£200 it is unbelievable. I have previously worked with multiple ultimakers and gigabots and I'm seeing comparable quality in finished prints here.
Comgrow: As equally impressive as the printer. Wow. I had a couple of issues with the printer regarding the flatness software the bed. This made first layers difficult to get dialed in. They quickly recommended a solution and shipped replacement parts with no quibble. I provided a video of the performance and some images showing the problem and they knew this was a genuine query and rectified it immediately. They offered some advice alongside this also. Turn around time was more than acceptable and I had a great experience dealing with Nancy from Comgrow. I would highly recommend buying from this seller.
Helpful(0)Unhelpful(0)You have already voted this
★★★★★
senura –
With all the upgrades you will end up doing to this printer. You’re better off getting a SOVOL
The control board uses cheap controllers, so the machine is loud and will need a new motherboard if you want to sleep next to it while it’s running
The plastic extruder will break, so you will need a metal one
If you plan on printing a lot with this, the V rollers will have to be replaced often(and tightened )
If you try to do it overnight print with 220 Celsius, the PTFE to will melt and clog(heat creep ). So will have to upgrade to a all metal hotend.
With the stock springs that comes to level the bed, you will be readjusting and re-levelling the bed every month, unless you buy the stiffer yellow Springs
The thin aluminium bed will warp overtime so you will need either a glass bed or ABL both cost the same.
What ever this cost you will spend double on upgrades to make it a decent and usable printer.
Helpful(0)Unhelpful(0)You have already voted this
★★★★★
Prajwal Dsouza –
Mise a jour du commentaire sur le défaut du plateau d’impression.
Cette imprimante tout métal est livrée en semi-kit. la plus grand partie de l’assemblage est déjà fait en usine (mais ne dispense pas de vérifier les serrages de vis). L’emballage est très sérieux et protecteur.
Tout est livré coté outils nécessaires a l’assemblage et à l’utilisation: clés allen, clés pour les écrous (déja montés), pince coupante pour le filament, débouche buse et spatule pour décoller les pièces, carte SD avec cura et un exemple de gcode/STL.
Toute les pièces sont ensachées par famille et très bien référencées, un très bon point qui facilite le montage. Il y a plus de vis que nécessaire, ne vous affolez pas si il reste des vis inutilisées, c’est normal.
Coté montage, comptez une bonne heure en prenant du temps. La documentation est relativement explicite mais il faut bien regarder les pièces a monter pour ne pas faire d’erreur d’assemblage. Rien de compliqué, Naomi Wu y arrive, donc pas de raison que vous n’y arriviez pas. Une fois montée vous avez une imprimante tout métal avec roulements type vslot (sans être de vrais vslot) qui est bien rigide, sans trop de défauts de conception.
Coté logiciel, il suffit de reprendre le profil d’une Creality CR10 et de changer l’enveloppe de travail.
Les défauts: – Le plateau n’est pas parfaitement plan mais remonte un peu sur les bords dans mon cas, 0,15mm entre le centre et les bords. En pratique cela veut dire que pour avoir une impression qui colle au centre, les bords vont toucher. Défaut rédhibitoire pour utiliser toute la surface d’impression, ou qui demande de sacrifier de la surface. Une solution est d’utiliser un plateau en verre, mais cela s’ajoute au cout de l’mprimante. Impossible de mettre plus de 3 étoile a cause de ca. – le filament peut frotter sur la vis du Z qui est graissée donc risque de contamination du filament. Il va falloir imprimer une pièce de guidage adaptée (voir sur thingiveres). – L’encodeur de l’écran ne permets pas d’incrémenter de 1 a 1 facilement, ça saute de 2 en 2 ou plus. – un poil bruyante. – pas de chemin de câble, le câble du Z est très tendu en position Z max. – slot pour la sdcard peu pratique. – non opensource pour le firmware. – documentation légère pour un débutant.
Les bons points: – lit chauffant alu et surface d’impression: ça chauffe vite et bien, l’adhésion est excellente en PLA (pas testé encore d’autre matières). – extrudeur correct, a tester avec du TPU néanmoins. – tête d’impression bien isolée, avec ventilo de refroidissement hotend et un pour l’extrusion. – électronique protégée et ventilée, alimentation fixée sur l’imprimante – firmware qui n’est pas trop mal, pas vu de bug pour l’instant. – utilisable sans modifications, bref une imprimante low cost pour débutant – expédiée depuis l’EU, donc pas de frais de douane, ça arrive en 3 jours d’Angleterre.
Au final difficile de battre cette imprimante pour le rapport qualité prix. La surface d’impression est plus faible qu’une Creality CR10 mais suffisante et en rapport avec le prix. La disponibilité en europe est un gros plus pour ceux qui ne veulent pas prendre le risque d’une importation. La plus grande surprise vient du fait qu’elle est utilisable directement même par un débutant qui prendra le temps de se former sur internet pour l’utilisation d’une imprimante 3D.
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★★★★★
Gabriele –
The 3D printer itself is great, no complaints at all. But I hate this WOL3D’s habit of opening brand new packages just to stick their ugly logo on it, which we can’t even remove afterwards. First I got a printer that was dusty even though it was inside the box…even had scratches. Probably was a display piece they packed and shipped. I did quickly get a replacement, but they still opened the sealed pack to stick their ugly logo on it. Come on WOL3D we don’t need your logo. If you’re modifying the printer like this at least show the same in the images, I wouldn’t have bought it from you. Imagine ordering an iPhone, and the seller sticks his logo on it with super glue…just plain stupid.
Peter C –
Si legge di tutto su questa stampante, è difficile non dilungarsi sui pregi.
Pro:
– rapporto qualità prezzo ottimo; ho provato altre stampanti ben più costose e dalla qualità decisamente inferiore
– per essere un kit è piuttosto semplice da montare, tutte le viti sono contenute in bustine etichettate che riportano le misure delle viti quindi è impossibile sbagliare dove vanno usate
– il piatto scalda bene, ha una buona aderenza senza dover utilizzare prodotti che aiutino l’incollagio del pezzo
– si può sostiture l’ugello estrusore con ugelli di sezioni differenti per ottenere finiture più o meno raffinate (utilizzare ugelli MK8)
– precisa, buona concentricità (cilindri e sfere vengono realizzati in maniera più che soddisfacente)
– possibilità di utilizzare tanti filamenti di materiale differente (PLA, PLA+, ABS, ABS+, PETG, FLEX, WOOD, CARBON etc.) Li ho provati quasi tutti con ottimi risultati
– a seconda del materiale e delle impostazioni si riescono ad ottenere pezzi piuttosto lisci e piacevoli al tatto
Contro:
– per il momento posso dire che essendo completamente aperta è piuttosto rumorosa
– non è velocissima
Note generali e consigli:
– i materiali plastici sono piuttosto fragili se utilizzati per pezzi con parti sottili o piccoli incastri, scegliere materiali come il flex aiuta
– carini alcuni progetti già pronti da stampare che si trovano in rete e che migliorano la stampante stessa
– è bello giocare con le impostazioni di temperatura estrusore/piatto e tutte le varie impostazioni per capire bene come ottimizzare le stampe (io solitamente uso i software cura e slic3er) poi i cad free che si trovano in rete
– fare attenzione ai primi istanti di stampa facendo in modo che porzioni di filamento già estruso e solidificato non risultino arricciate perchè potrebbe compromettere il resto della stampa se la testina ci va a sbattere contro
– organizzare bene i cavi in modo che non intralcino i movimenti del piatto e della testina
Ero partito con 4 stelle ma mi rendo conto scrivendo che attualmente merita 5 stelle 🙂
Aggiornamento 13/03/2019, dopo 6 mesi di utilizzo:
ho fatto molte prove con filamenti diversi, ottenendo buoni risultati, di seguito alcune osservazioni:
– dopo i primi test ho acquistato solo filamenti PLUS ovvero con il + dopo la sigla del materiale perché li ho trovati più omogenei, meno odorosi e con le adeguate temperature non si è mai intasato l’ugello.
– Ho sempre stampato in qualità “Fine”
– Ho sempre usato l’ugello standard da 0.4 anche se ne ho altri più fini che proverò a breve.
– Attenzione durante la calibrazione del piatto a girare nel senso corretto e poco per volta le ghiere del piatto perchè sbagliando potreste bucare il piatto che è morbido e l’ugello caldo lo fonde
– Tutti i problemi avuti di distacco dell’oggetto dal piatto sono riconducibili ad una non perfetta calibrazione del piatto che va fatta spesso.
– Pezzi di dimensioni maggiori di circa 5cmx5cm hanno più problemi di aderenza; anche io ho riscontrato che il piatto non è perfettamente piano e all’allontanarsi dal centro l’oggetto tende a non aderire perfettamente (provare con piano di vetro)
– Per oggetti che si aprono in orizzontale (tipo fungo per intenderci) utilizzare le “colonnette” di supporto altrimenti il filo non sta su (le settate dal software di slicing). Per la mia esperienza non servono per tutta la lunghezza dello sbalzo ma si possono mettere a intervalli anche perchè comunque la loro rimozione lascia dei segni che vanno eventualmente limati
PLA+ : semplice, aderisce bene al piatto, fragile per pezzi sottili
PETG: bel materiale, semplice, aderisce bene al piatto, meno fragile del PLA+, consigliato
ABS+: rognosetto nell’aderenza al piatto, non mi esalta
TPU+ : bello perchè è gommoso quindi adatto per applicazioni particolari, non facilissima la stampa soprattutto nei primi layer
WOOD+: per ora il mio preferito perchè ha un aspetto uniforme e quasi non si percepiscono i fili, bello al tatto, facile da stampare, buona aderenza al piatto
Buon divertimento!!
Jalal –
The price of the printer is very good and the printer is nice with all the accessories.
However, need the assembly process can be something to consider, especially for beginners.
Jean-Luc Hafey –
(edit out of the box quality still remains the same, however replacing the stock build plate with a PEI spring steel plate with adhesive magnet base upgrade massively corrects many of the low points making larger prints printable, sellers did also open dialog following review but since the problem is basically solved at this point ¯\_(ツ)_/¯)
Hot bed is completely warped, it has low points in between the tramming screws which makes large prints in its current form impossible, small prints such as the one included on the sd card are possible and work quite well especially with a layer between them and the bed but anything larger will have the nozzle digging into the bed on some sections and printing in air on others. bed is also frustratingly adhesive with some filament impossible to remove even when scraping using metal tools, also more of warning but don’t put your thumb on the side of the scraping tool there are a couple of nasty burs on it. from what i have looked up it is possible to correct the squareness of the bed with heat resistant tape and a more flat build plate, but i would hope that future models have this issue fixed or at least provide customers the supply’s to fix it
Clap –
si vous débuté dans le monde de l’impression 3d je vous conseille d’utiliser cura car il rend de très belle impression(mais rend le impression un peux long).
cette impriment a énormément de point positif pour le prix:
+le prix
+facilité de montage
+facilité d’utilisation( par rapport a une anet a8)
+qualité des print génial une fois le bon paramètre trouver
+la boite est très bien protéger et agencer
+le build surface très très efficace
mais il y a quand même des default qui peuvent être résolue :
-le bed légèrement tordue mais pas trop gênant(remplacement Creality imprimante 3D verre de carbone de Lit )
-moteur bruyant (resolution 3 Pcs NEMA 17 Moteur pas à pas en acier)
-il y a un bip lor des réglages avec la molette
Si le commentaire vous a été utiles dite le moi.^^
Peter C –
I really gotta give props to Creality for making this printer so affordable and (relatively) easy to set up and use. Since getting it I learned a of stuff about 3D printing (both by being forced to do it and trying to troubleshoot all the different issues :P)
It’s a great printer for the price, not sure what else I can say. Initial assembly was relatively easy and took around an hour. Then I realised I haven’t done it properly so I had to re-assemble parts I assembled before (another 1h). Then a couple of days later I realised the frame is not straight… So I disassembled and re-levelled the whole thing from scratch (another 2h or so) Then i’ve done it yet again a couple of days later to straighten the gantry 😛 Unfortunately factory pre-assembled parts were not perfectly assembled. The bed is not perfectly even either, seems a bit warped but oh well the glass bed upgrade is too expensive.
Usage is straightforward after assembly, there’s an amazing amount of 3D-printable improvements to the Ender 3, tons of guides and information readily available. SD card slot is a great addition but you’ll probably want to move to an Octoprint setup for ease of use and to flash a more recent Marlin firmware.
Unfortunately the Pause feature has bugged out multiple times on me on the original firmware (just freezes printer in place, ruining prints) but at least the power-loss recovery works fine (once it freezes just shut it off and back on and it will give you an option to resume). No such issues with the custom-built Marlin fw.
Worth noting is that my unit came with a 4.2.2 32-bit motherboard, an extruder guide enforced with metal and adjustable tension. Attached amount of filament was almost enough to print the sample doggy figure – you can clearly see where the filament ran out ;(
Overall it’s a fun learning experience but if you’re expecting to just “buy, print and forget” – this might be the best choice for you as it has no auto bed levelling and other features present in more expensive printers (unless you upgrade it yourself)
Definitely watch one or two assembly videos to get an idea of what to look out for during assembly, it will save you time in the longer run
Mac –
I will split my review in two pieces, printer (Ender 3) and reseller (Comgrow).
Printer:
This is a very, very inexpensive printer. It comes partially assembled however I wouldn’t consider it partially assembled at all. I recommend anyone buying this to dismantle the lower half and reassemble with due care and attention. Assemble the whole printer on a flat surface and a set square. Ensure the whole frame is square and the z rod is square and parallel to the frame. Ensure belts are tight, and ensure the carriage, z gantry and bed wheels are tensioned correctly before beginning to print.
Carefully assembling the printer will make troubleshooting print quality amazingly simple. I would recommend using Simplify 3d as the slicer with this printer.
Overall I am getting incredible prints now with this printer. For <£200 it is unbelievable. I have previously worked with multiple ultimakers and gigabots and I'm seeing comparable quality in finished prints here.
Comgrow:
As equally impressive as the printer. Wow. I had a couple of issues with the printer regarding the flatness software the bed. This made first layers difficult to get dialed in. They quickly recommended a solution and shipped replacement parts with no quibble. I provided a video of the performance and some images showing the problem and they knew this was a genuine query and rectified it immediately. They offered some advice alongside this also. Turn around time was more than acceptable and I had a great experience dealing with Nancy from Comgrow. I would highly recommend buying from this seller.
senura –
With all the upgrades you will end up doing to this printer. You’re better off getting a SOVOL
The control board uses cheap controllers, so the machine is loud and will need a new motherboard if you want to sleep next to it while it’s running
The plastic extruder will break, so you will need a metal one
If you plan on printing a lot with this, the V rollers will have to be replaced often(and tightened )
If you try to do it overnight print with 220 Celsius, the PTFE to will melt and clog(heat creep ). So will have to upgrade to a all metal hotend.
With the stock springs that comes to level the bed, you will be readjusting and re-levelling the bed every month, unless you buy the stiffer yellow Springs
The thin aluminium bed will warp overtime so you will need either a glass bed or ABL both cost the same.
What ever this cost you will spend double on upgrades to make it a decent and usable printer.
Prajwal Dsouza –
Mise a jour du commentaire sur le défaut du plateau d’impression.
Cette imprimante tout métal est livrée en semi-kit. la plus grand partie de l’assemblage est déjà fait en usine (mais ne dispense pas de vérifier les serrages de vis). L’emballage est très sérieux et protecteur.
Tout est livré coté outils nécessaires a l’assemblage et à l’utilisation: clés allen, clés pour les écrous (déja montés), pince coupante pour le filament, débouche buse et spatule pour décoller les pièces, carte SD avec cura et un exemple de gcode/STL.
Toute les pièces sont ensachées par famille et très bien référencées, un très bon point qui facilite le montage. Il y a plus de vis que nécessaire, ne vous affolez pas si il reste des vis inutilisées, c’est normal.
Coté montage, comptez une bonne heure en prenant du temps. La documentation est relativement explicite mais il faut bien regarder les pièces a monter pour ne pas faire d’erreur d’assemblage. Rien de compliqué, Naomi Wu y arrive, donc pas de raison que vous n’y arriviez pas.
Une fois montée vous avez une imprimante tout métal avec roulements type vslot (sans être de vrais vslot) qui est bien rigide, sans trop de défauts de conception.
Coté logiciel, il suffit de reprendre le profil d’une Creality CR10 et de changer l’enveloppe de travail.
Les défauts:
– Le plateau n’est pas parfaitement plan mais remonte un peu sur les bords dans mon cas, 0,15mm entre le centre et les bords.
En pratique cela veut dire que pour avoir une impression qui colle au centre, les bords vont toucher. Défaut rédhibitoire pour utiliser toute la surface d’impression, ou qui demande de sacrifier de la surface. Une solution est d’utiliser un plateau en verre, mais cela s’ajoute au cout de l’mprimante. Impossible de mettre plus de 3 étoile a cause de ca.
– le filament peut frotter sur la vis du Z qui est graissée donc risque de contamination du filament. Il va falloir imprimer une pièce de guidage adaptée (voir sur thingiveres).
– L’encodeur de l’écran ne permets pas d’incrémenter de 1 a 1 facilement, ça saute de 2 en 2 ou plus.
– un poil bruyante.
– pas de chemin de câble, le câble du Z est très tendu en position Z max.
– slot pour la sdcard peu pratique.
– non opensource pour le firmware.
– documentation légère pour un débutant.
Les bons points:
– lit chauffant alu et surface d’impression: ça chauffe vite et bien, l’adhésion est excellente en PLA (pas testé encore d’autre matières).
– extrudeur correct, a tester avec du TPU néanmoins.
– tête d’impression bien isolée, avec ventilo de refroidissement hotend et un pour l’extrusion.
– électronique protégée et ventilée, alimentation fixée sur l’imprimante
– firmware qui n’est pas trop mal, pas vu de bug pour l’instant.
– utilisable sans modifications, bref une imprimante low cost pour débutant
– expédiée depuis l’EU, donc pas de frais de douane, ça arrive en 3 jours d’Angleterre.
Au final difficile de battre cette imprimante pour le rapport qualité prix. La surface d’impression est plus faible qu’une Creality CR10 mais suffisante et en rapport avec le prix. La disponibilité en europe est un gros plus pour ceux qui ne veulent pas prendre le risque d’une importation.
La plus grande surprise vient du fait qu’elle est utilisable directement même par un débutant qui prendra le temps de se former sur internet pour l’utilisation d’une imprimante 3D.
Gabriele –
The 3D printer itself is great, no complaints at all. But I hate this WOL3D’s habit of opening brand new packages just to stick their ugly logo on it, which we can’t even remove afterwards. First I got a printer that was dusty even though it was inside the box…even had scratches. Probably was a display piece they packed and shipped. I did quickly get a replacement, but they still opened the sealed pack to stick their ugly logo on it. Come on WOL3D we don’t need your logo. If you’re modifying the printer like this at least show the same in the images, I wouldn’t have bought it from you. Imagine ordering an iPhone, and the seller sticks his logo on it with super glue…just plain stupid.